The Most Memorable Meal Of My Life

Travel Diaries

Apr 7

I don’t think I had ever even heard of Sri Lanka. Maybe, but I don’t know. When he said it, Sri Lanka, it sounded like one of those exclusive, impossible to reach islands only pretentious honeymooners and celebrities vacation at. You know, the ones with those $1,500 a night overwater bungalows and a lack of local culture. It sounded like a land a broke, spiritually curious 29 year old backpacker had no business going to.

But he told me I should go. That he liked it, not as much as India, but he liked it. That it was affordable, beautiful, safe and a two hour flight from New Delhi.

He also told me to go to Nepal, to go trekking and do a Vipassana Meditation Retreat. And I did. I went to all the places my new friend told me to go. Because for whatever reason I trusted him, and when he spoke of these unfamiliar places, I got that feeling in my gut. That feeling of fear and excitement blended together, leaving you the good kind of nauseous.

I had zero expectations. My new friend was the only person I knew that had been to Sri Lanka. Family and friends back home didn’t even know it was a country.

“Where’s that town in India?”

Of course I consulted with Google, but even she was being a bit mysterious about the whole place. Besides, I don’t trust the travel bloggers that show up on the first page of google. Their content lacks the kind of depth and insight I’m hunting for. I don’t want to know how to plan a holiday. I want to know why Sri Lanka is damn mysterious?!

Sri Lanka is an island country in South Asia, located in the Indian Ocean. I know everyone says this about pretty much every Asian country, but it really was the most beautiful place I’ve ever been to! Costa Rica is up there too. But I think this island jungle beauty really stood out to me because it was unlike any place I’ve ever seen. I mean, it reminded me of India. But the tuk tuks were red not green, the saris were pleated and a little sexier, and the food was lighter and coconut heavy. It’s like if India moved to a tropical island, learned to live a slower pace of life and started surfing.

Sri Lanka is deliciously green with tremendous natural beauty. The tea is so good you don’t need milk or sugar. The locals are excited about tourists, even if they don’t get so many. That’s because Sri Lanka’s violent civil war dragged on for nearly three decades, finally coming to an end in 2009. Tourism began to pick up, but it was slow in comparison to their Southeast Asian neighbors. The recent Easter bombings and now global pandemic are once again destroying the islands tourism. It’s a country I highly encourage you to put on the top of that vacation list I know you’re currently creating. A country I know is grateful for tourists.

During my month-long travels around Sri Lanka, I hopped around historical Kandy, busy Colombo, laid-back Arugam Bay, and divine Adam’s Peak. But it was the little town of Ella that stole my heart. Not only because of its stunning views and refreshingly cool climate, but mainly because of my homestay.

The home of Sudu and his family in Ella was not only the most memorable stay of my trip, but the most memorable meal of my life.

This has to be the definition of a homestay. I have stayed in many Airbnbs during my travels. The idea of Airbnb is, after all, to stay with locals and get a true feel of the place. No other Airbnb has ever immersed me in the local culture like this one. I was the only guest in this family’s traditional Sri Lankan home. With their colorful simple decor, sacred buddha statues and the classic rooster brass oil lamp, I felt right at home here.

And good thing, because I arrived at Ella exhausted and in desperate need of some down time. The family was extremely hospitable and friendly. Sudu and his daughter spoke little English, but we didn’t need language to communicate respect, excitement, confusion, and curiosity, all things exchanged during our time together. Sudu’s wife didn’t speak any English, but she showcased her appreciation of my presence with morning tea and smiles. That’s what I felt there. Appreciated. Appreciated just for being a guest.

I was probably too comfortable. I was well-rested in the cool, laid-back mountains of Ella. I was fed like a damn Queen.

One evening after some light hiking and waterfall chasing, I arrived home to the most incredible meal. Before leaving that day, Sudu asked me if I wanted dinner that evening.

“It’s only $5”, he said cheerfully.

“Of course!” I replied.

I forgot to tell him I was vegetarian. That didn’t turn out to be a problem. At all.

What welcomed me that evening at the dinner table was a meal that left me so stunned, all I could do was take pictures and shed a tear.

“Is all of this for me?!”

“Yes :).”

“Omg! Wow! Thank you! Join me, please.”

“No, no, no. Enjoy.”

Not one, not two, not even three, but TEN different vegetable curries and dishes they spent the entire day whipping up was sitting there waiting for me! I don’t know why, but I felt as special as the moment.

Now, let me tell you about these South Asian curries. You already know Indian curries are the bomb.com. But the staple Sri Lankan dish of rice and curry is a vegetarian's DREAM!

It’s like they decided to turn every vegetable imaginable into a chili-hot, coconut-rich stew so the world never has to suffer with tasteless vegetables ever again. And the best part. They’re all cooked with coconut milk, so hello vegan! Tasty, healthy, plant-based vegan DREAMZZZZZ!

Since Sudu and his family couldn’t speak English, or more like I couldn’t speak Sinhalese, I wasn’t exactly sure what was in each curry. But I’m pretty sure I was devouring eggplant curry, beat curry, carrot curry, potato curry, something curry, and my all time favorite, jackfruit curry. Jesus Christ. This jackfruit curry was cut into chunks and simmered in a blend of rich spices. The pieces of jackfruit were so tender and spiced, it could have easily passed for beef chunks!

I sat there with my favorite dinner guest, myself, reflecting on life’s most prominent questions: How did I end up here? What have I done to deserve this? How can I make this jackfruit curry at home? You know, the big questions.

I ate slowly and intentionally. Who am I kiddin? I gorged that shit down like a tiger at feeding time. A vegetarian tiger. (Meow.)

Did I mention that everything was vegan and gluten-free? Did I mention it was five frikin dollars?!?

Here’s the thing I’ve come to learn about food through my travels. I’ll let Anthony say it; “The perfect meal, or the best meals, occur in a context that frequently has very little to do with the food itself.” Of course the food was incredibly delicious. But it wouldn’t have tasted nearly as good without the ingredients of Sudu, his family, Sri Lanka, and their home.